There is a distinct, ethereal beauty to Hokkaido in December. Last winter, as the sun dipped early and the biting northern winds swept through Sapporo, our evenings blurred into a wonderful, unscripted routine: escaping the freezing air by ducking into the nearest glowing doorway.
Hininitsuka, Sapporo – a nice quaint bar we stumbled upon quite by accident – close to the Sapporo main train station.
In Japan, after-work drinking is a ritual of letting loose, but in Hokkaido, it takes on a deeply comforting, regional twist.
Japanese beverages are celebrated for their purity, often using the region’s soft snowmelt water to create incredibly crisp, clean beers. We spent hours tracking down these unique flavors. We visited the historic Sapporo Beer Factory, a stunning red-brick heritage site, and hopped between vibrant local spots.
Here you can spend a few hours walking through the factory museum, purchase unique merchandise and dine at the cafes and beer gardens in the compound.
At The Craft, we sampled an incredible rotation of independent taps from all over the island, while St. John’s Wood offered a lively pub atmosphere to toast alongside locals.
Beyond the hops, we even explored Hokkaido University, where the faculty studies northern viticulture. Sampling elegant, cold-climate varieties during a wine tasting inside one of the university’s beautiful heritage buildings was unforgettable.
My favorite memories of Sapporo bars are the most atmospheric ones. Walking through quiet neighborhoods, we would spot a warm lantern in a narrow alley and slide open the door. Inside, the spaces were intimate and dim, with large glass windows.
We would sit with a cold brew in hand, wrapped in absolute warmth, watching the heavy snowflakes fall outside.
Watching people hurrying through the freezing night against a completely white, snow-covered street felt entirely surreal. In those hidden refuges, the brutal winter outside just melted away.
If you are planning your own winter escape to Hokkaido this year, I highly encourage you to lose the map and let the warm lanterns guide you. Duck into these local gems, grab a stool by the window, and experience the magic for yourself.
Until then, Kanpai! 🍻